moose
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Posts: 2
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Post by moose on Feb 22, 2018 8:53:13 GMT 9.5
My Daytona was off the road in storage for a few years with battery removed for trickle charging. Having reinstalled the battery, the ECU light comes on, bike is in Neutral with neutral light ON, prior to attempted starting, engine turns over but there's no spark (I checked). Fuel pump not running also. By turning the ignition off and on 3 times, I could get the ECU light to flash up the DTC fault codes P0201, P0202, P0031, P0037, P0230, P0351, P0352. The bike was running fine just before it went into storage. There is no obvious fault with the wiring and battery voltage is OK. Fuses are intact. The DTCs relate to both injectors, both ignition coils, fuel pump relay and oxygen sensors. This appears similar to the fault reported by GirlSpyder at www.productreview.com.au/qa/hunter-spyder.htmlIs this a known problem? Is it worth trying to clear the DTC fault codes? I understand the Delphi MT05 EMS requires a K-Line diagnostic tool. Any suggestions of what diagnostic tools work with this EMS? Other suggestions? |
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moose
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by moose on Mar 30, 2018 14:37:06 GMT 9.5
For anyone reading this thread, it turns out the EFI relay wasn't working. Moisture had got into the relay case and there was enough corrosion on the relay internals to prevent it operating reliably. It seems the relay was mounted upside down, so any moisture about will drain into the relay housing and stay there (poor design!). The relay is located under the seat, bolted to the frame. It has four wires coming out. The Black/Orange wire powers the injectors, plugs etc and if the relay drops out, the ECU light will come on and all the DTC codes mentioned above are triggered.
I removed the relay from the bike, unplugged the 4 wire connector, then gently prised the relay out of the black plastic housing - it should pop out fairly easily. Clean any corrosion, clean and very lightly lubricate the relay pivot with some sewing machine oil and, if you have a multimeter, measure the coil resistance (about 60 ohms) and contact resistance (a few ohms max when relay operating). Replace relay plug and check operation of the relay by switching on the master switch, flameout (ignition) switch and kickstand in up position. You should see the relay contacts pull in and the hear the fuel pump operate.
If the relay doesn't operate, trace relay power 12v (Black/White wire) back upstream (this powers the relay coil) and check the relay earth (green wire) has continuity to battery earth.
This is a fairly standard automotive relay so replacing it with a generic type should be easy enough (but I haven't checked for sure).
One could imagine this being the source of intermittent faults if the relay contacts have slight corrosion and it is subject to vibration in use.
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